Tetracycline

[mandy92]

i've been using tetracycline to heal my betta's fin rot (all of the other medications haven't helped at all) except i just wanted to know something. i've read in a lot of websites that tetracycline can take a while, up to one month, to heal. but does it get worse before it gets better or does it stop the deteriorating and then get better? because i don't see any improvement, the deteriorating is simply occurring at a slower rate.

[Lyarlla]

Tetracycline is often used in conjunction with other fish meds. It can take up to a month for fins to start regrowing. There could also be a secondary fungal infection so make sure you are treating for fungus at the same time.

Here's a bit of really good info I have snarfed off an excellent site that you might find useful:

[Registered users only can see links. ]
Fin Rot

Common Name: Fin Rot
Scientific Name: Aeromonas sp. or Pseudomonas sp.
Description: gram-negative rod bacteria
Symptoms: loss of fin tissue, black or bloody fin tips
Cause: poor water conditions, exposure to toxins
Medications: Mardel's Maracyn-Two, Aquatronics' Kanacyn
Ingredients: Minocycline, Kanamiacyn
Notes: Can be mild or severe, may require medication

Fin rot is a gram-negative bacterial infection usually caused by poor water conditions. It is probably the number one most common betta ailment and chances are if you own bettas you will eventually deal with fin rot. Fin rot is most common in uncycled tanks where bettas are exposed to ammonia or nitrite. It can be caused by elevated nitrate levels in cycled tanks and may be caused by fluctuating temperatures and pH levels as well. Essentially, these toxins or fluctuations stress the betta, weakening his immune system, leaving him susceptible to bacterial infections.

The most common signs of fin rot are a rapid loss of fin tissue, bloody fin tips or blackened fin edges. In darker colored bettas these symptoms may be difficult to spot. Upon speculation of fin rot you should immediately check your water parameters to determine the origin. Successfully curing fin rot is dependent on fixing the cause. Check for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, ph and temperature. The ammonia and nitrite levels should be at 0 ppm [parts per million] and nitrate should be under 20 ppm, maximum. The pH levels and water temperature should be stable with little or no fluctuation from the days before. Remember, toxins like ammonia and nitrite become exponentially more significant in alkaline water [pH above 7.0] and thus much more dangerous and likely to stress your betta. This doesn't mean you have to bring the pH down. Drastically adjusting the pH could cause more stress. It's far better to leave the pH stable and to maintain little or no toxins in the water instead. While your betta has fin rot, it is helpful to increase the frequency of your water changes and add ammonia or nitrite neutralizers, like Kordon’s AmQuel-Plus, if necessary.

If the fin rot is not severe, meaning there is still more then 1/2 of the fin left, then usually clean water and careful observation will due as treatment. It's crucial that the betta not be exposed to any toxins while healing from the disease. New fin growth is very fragile and it's not uncommon to have several relapses after healing begins. You may also notice the fins grow back slightly curled. While this doesn't always occur it is normal and in no way hurts the fish.

If you suspect the fin rot is severe the betta may need your help to recover through use of medication and clean water. Because fin rot is bacterial in nature you will need a gram-negative antibiotic. I recommend Mardel's Maracyn-Two [Minocycline] or if quite severe you may want to use Kanacyn [Kanamiacyn] or an equivalent wide spectrum antibiotic. As mentioned before, all the antibiotics in the world won't cure your betta if the cause is not corrected. Be sure to test your water and make any changes as necessary. [see All About Water for more information]

Use caution when selecting a medication for your betta. Avoid any herbal tonics or remedies that contain Melaleuca like Melafix or Bettafix. These medications are mostly antiseptics and may help fin regeneration after the bacterial infection has cleared but will do little to help initially. If your betta is sick enough to need a real antibiotic then give him one.

Just a note…

Antibiotic resistance is a problem facing aquarists all over the world. This occurs when bacteria evolve to make newer, stronger strains that cannot be combated by available antibiotics. To avoid creating tougher strains of bacteria be sure to carefully follow the directions on the medicine package and to never stop or change medications part way through treatment unless your betta is having a dangerous reaction to them. As with any disease, remove your sick fish from the community tank and isolate him for treatment in a hospital tank. Never medicate healthy fish.

[mandy92]

thanks i was starting to worry coz i had used it in conjunction with Pimafix. but i guess that's not right then. however i live in Australia and i've never seen the medications they list there. anyone in Australia have any recommendations?

[Lyarlla]

Ive got both Melafix and Pimafix at home. The LFS dont tend to have a lot of meds so maybe go check out an aquarium shop - look or ask (I find asking gets me faster results than me looking cause Im so slow, ha ha) for meds that have ingredients like Minocycline as this would be roughly the equivalent of Maracyn 2.

[mandy92]

then do you think i'd be ok for me to continue using Pimafix with tetracycline now? or should i go look for Minocycline? it took me a while to get my hands on the tetracycline i don't have that many aquarium shops nearby. only strictly aquarium, this one in Eastwood and Kim's Aquatic World. but these are all pretty slim on supplies for fish medication. most of them only have water treatments like stuff for softening the water. not any serious medication and antibiotics.