3 gallon tank setup?

[Legg83]

I just threw out my 5 gallon hex tank thinking that I would prefer a 3 gallon rectangular tank for a single betta.

Any good books or resources on aquascaping? I've had my hex for a little under a year but I'm still very much a newbie to aquariums and fish keeping I think and I'd like to ask a few questions.

I think I would prefer moving to a sand substrate as I think it might look better but wonder if it is easier or harder to clean than gravel? How deep should my substrate be? I had a gravel vacuum and cleaned out my tank once a week but it seems like the gravel was just filthy no matter how hard I tried. I would have replaced it but I had heard that doing that would destroy helpful bacteria.

I also want live plants this time around but I'm not sure how much is too much. I am thinking a couple Java ferns and some java moss along the back side of the tank along with some sort of driftwood or some ornament in the middle, but that might be too crowded. I don't suppose there are any software applications like those 3d home architect things for aquascaping? :P

Also my silk plants darkened over time and I eventually replaced them even though I cleaned around them, do you need to clean your live plants somehow?

[BettaLu&Meg]

you should of put it on aquabid, or ebay, THIS IS Y we are goin to have a auction section on here, and i'll will see it that we are.
Substrate will be a little bit harder to clean than the gravel. and i wouldn't go with that, even tho it doest look better, its alot more work than gravel. Also with gravel, Getting snails, which i do recommend snails cant damage gravel as they can with substrate and plantation. golden apples and red RamsHorn are less damaging to plantation. keeping snails would greatly show a difference in seeing stuff on the bottom of your tank for the fact that they eat EVERYTHING including algea.
As for 'natural', there is very little you can really do to make it completely natural. Completely natural would be a muddy bottom tank with almost stagnant current and near-choked with driftwood and rotting vegetation.

The muddy part alone disqualifies a truely natural setting; sand is your next best bet, followed by products like Amazonia and Black Onyx sand (which can be mixed with Silica or Pool sand to create the desired shade), this i would not do. even tho i did want to mention it for there "natural habbitate state". also sand will give you problems with your filtration system.

What I would start off doing is selecting plants; It'll be very hard to make a complete Betta type biotope, as there is very little in the way of completely aquatic plants you can use: especially considering the fact that females in a group will NEED places to hide and breaks in the line of sight.

Now, you can find plants that are approriate for this; Large stems of Giant Hygro (Hygrophila Corymbosa), thick plantings of Water Wisteria (Hygrophila Difformis) are both good tall breaks for the line of site, both are proper in a SE Asian setting (though not occurring in the same habitat as bettas)

Mid level plants will be Java Fern (Monosorum Pteropus) attached to hardscape (driftwood or rough rocks) and most of the Cryptocoryne species (which require a nice sandy and deep substrate)

Of these, i highly recommend Crypocoryne Wendtii and Cryptocoryne Beckettii as both have done well in my lower light aquariums with a minimum of 'Crypt Rot'.

Java Moss (Taxiphyllum Barbieri, incorrectly called Versicularia Dubyana) can be useful as well, but must be kept in check, It should also always be rooted to driftwood, rocks or a framework lest it drift around uncontrolled making a mess (which is nigh-on impossible to clean out!)

Cleaning live plants are simple, just run under warm water and give a quick swipe of your hands through and put back, doing this will still keep some beneficial bacteria on there and wont flush them all down

[BettaLu&Meg]

also wanted to mention, bettas natural habbitate all 50 species of them, are usually crowded with vegitation so if your looking just to put one betta in this will be a perfect home for a happy betta!!! also remember that a 3 gallon tank is usually only a ONE BETTA tank, and should not have any other fish in with them, Doing so in a small area will over populate the water, making the water quality poor quick, and prone to sicknesses.

heres how to care for your bettas, NOT SAYING YOU DONT KNOW HOW. but extra help from us wouldn't hurt...
First the tank, The recomended size for a healthy and happy betta/fish is 1 per 2 gallons! this gives them the room to swim, exercise and a territory for them to conquer. Now even tho these fish can live in harsh conditions as people we don't want that for them, so a filter is needed and a water heater is neccassary! They are tropical fish and need there water to be at temps between 74-82degreesF. Also supplying these for your betta will reduce the risk of poor water quality diseases and destroying there immune systems due to frigid waters.

Water conditioner is a must! you want to purchase water conditioner with beneficial bacteria to jump start your cycling in your new tank, Some conditioners don't have this and some do, Its ok to still use your conditioner with bacteria(beneficial) for weekly water changes. This stuff will remove harmful chlorines, chloromines and harmfull metals in our tap water.

For feeding as i posted in several threads and posts, Vareity is the only way to feed your betta to make sure he's healthy and immune system is strong. Feeding your betta the same food over and over will make him sick. Sicknesses such as swimm bladder disorder and constipation. These are sicknesses not deadly if not ignored but very uncomfortable for them and horrible to see them lifeless!
Hikari is a brand breeders like myself and fish keepers like Fishmomma swear by! heres the link to help you see what they look like [Registered users only can see links. ]

Now Pellets and Betta Flakes should be there normal everyday diet! Feeding should be 2x a day also. Bloodworms and freezedried shrimp/or frozen are only treats and not there set diets food!! so don't over feed with this because they produce more problems in your bettas belly as would candy to a baby!
Now for the pellets, you should feed them 3-4 pellets each feeding, Also should be presoaked for about 3-5 minute before giving this to them. I KNOW IT DOESN'T SAY THAT IN THE DIRECTIONS but take it from me, and us (on this forum) presoaking it makes it easier for them to chew and easier to digest than the pellets hard. It also rehydrates.
Now for the flakes you want to serve a pinch full each feeding

Ok now this is very important..........ANY LEFT OVER FOODS AFTER 5 MIN REMOVE!!!
In this time after 5 minutes of feeding they already eating what there goin to eat so it should be taken out, if failure to remove excess food presists then expect poor water quality, Overfeeding(which can contribute to swim bladder disorders and other illnesses) and bacteria blooms. <~~ these are a no-no for your bettas lives-sake

Now for your weekly water changes, Even tho they can live in harsh conditions like i stated, filters should be purchased and 2 gallon per bettas should be available, when its possible. Purchasing a filter also makes weekly water changes a little bit easier, and if your like me and other hear with more than 4 tanks any help is good.

With filtered water only 40-50% water change should be done and replaced with CONDITIONED water! no filters a 70-80% water change IS NECCESARY!! doing this will ensure your bettas health
Heaters should be set for 74-82degreesF and a thermometer will help say what the temp is!
Also live plants are good for oxidation in your tanks water, removes some nitrates and other harmful substances in the water.
Also live scavengers, like snails that keep ammonia and algae levels down help also!

[Legg83]

Thank you!

I've got a few more questions now.. should I get some eco complete substrate for live plants, or is it ok to have any type of gravel? How are the plants shipped? Do you just get a bulb or a partially grown plant?

And a random question, when replacing water with room temperature water, should I pour the new water in gradually over a few hours so there isn't a quick change of temperature? Before I had been pouring all my water in at once because I wanted to keep the filter running.. or is it ok to turn it off for awhile?

[Fivestar68]

Plants are tough to have thrive in a tank without all the elements.
1. Substrate
2. Lighting
3. Minerals

There are people out there that set up tanks ONLY for plants. Another hobby.
But with Bettas and proper tank set-ups live plants can prosper, but at a lower growth rate. Personally live plants is the only way to go. As far as the water if it is same temp and has been conditoned you are doing just fine.

[bettalvr]

legg83, receiving plants varies by type of plant and where you get your plants. Sometimes you can find fishkeepers who will sell you more mature plants. It's up to you as to what you want.
As for adding new water, I take the thermometer out of my tank and put it in the tank with the new water. That way I can adjust temp as I'm putting it in my container so that it's the same as the tank. I condition it in my container, then add it to my tank. So far, so good . . . at my house anyway.